Saturday, 25 April 2015

The Usual Suspects

It has been long, and what a ride. 
There are so many new impulses I've been struggling to digest (sometimes literally) from Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam and Laos. So many people, so much food and oh so many bad puns from the brits. I'll do my best to stick to the juicy bits, and not delve too far into the heated Star Wars debates that rolled back and forth on the sleeper trains in Vietnam.





At the commencement, we were a motley crew of 16 that departed from Bangkok on the 11th of March. If my memory serves me right, which it never does, there were 9 Scandinavians in the group. 6 of which were Norwegian.

No, wait, hang on. There were 7. Me! We'll get back to that.
Three British girls came and left the tour as well, keeping our numbers variable. (This, of course, being the easiest way to throw off potential Ninja Assassins.)
I suppose a few of them would pout if I didn't deign to give them a brief character summary.
CHARACTER SUMMARY!
The Smooth Operator: 
My room-mate and usual partner in crime. Easy on the eyes and carrying an aura of benevolence. Wolves look sharp in sheep-suits, though and the deepest sea is quiet. One might only wonder what moves around in his murky depths. A killer on the dancefloor and one can only assume that he is as lethal elsewise. Shamone.

The Lawyer Man: 
Pale blue eyes under a faux red fringe, sizing you up and looking you down. Contemplative and cutting when sober, debauched and elaborate when roaring drunk. A scholar and a gent when he feels to, a suave devil in a suit when not. Does he wish to uphold the laws of man or bend them to his will? Only he knows.

The Byronic Hero: 
Stern eyebrows, greying temples (at 18) and framed by a jawline so sharp you could cut adamantium on it. A thinker prone to brooding, but with enough self-awareness to know how little he knows. A rare trait in modern men. Carrying tragic flaws that make him sympathetic to the reader and irresistible to women. The cause of his ineviteable downfall? Backflips. 

The Dearest Mother: 
Hella lady with hella hair. Hippie finery rising up to hazel curls cascading down her back. Below a perpetually curled eyebrow, a razor tongue. Quick witted and well versed in the ways of the nerd. Called me Lando Calrissian once. I nearly cried. Also super indulgent with two certain boys when it came to carrying their junk. (Hint: not me or James.)

The Lady Viking: 
Equally crazy curls, only these were blonde. A Danish dame with a short name, but a liver for any drinking-game. Kicked gravity in the balls as she threw herself fearlessly into a 50 metre bungee-jump with both cheek and gusto. Lethal with a bucket. Deadly with a shot. In love with the Coco. 

The Esteemed Doctor C: 
A marvelous lady who probably fantasised about poisoning the lot of us after the hundredth question about "what this dot on my skin could be." Legs that start at the hips and end at the toes has better not give you any ideas though, wiseguy. Here is a madame who holds her own in any bar and can whoop the lot of us six ways to sunday. 

The Honoured Doctor E: 
A medical professional in exile. What strange and devious deeds might have brought such a lovely lady to these shady corners of the planet? She claims to be studying in Malaysia, to be on leave with a wish to explore. Could she be running from something back in England? Or maybe... someone? Who was that specially woven scarf for? 

The Canadian: 
She might have the others fooled with her polite ways and kind treatment of everyone around her. She might have gotten me as well with her cat-lady spiel, heart of gold and her backstory working for oil firms. I saw this mysterious mademoiselle for who she really IS! 
A stone cold drug lord with an iron grip on the Canadian West... Totally... 
They call her... The Maple Syrup Trap. She lures you in with sweetness, then WHAM!

The Danish Cat: 
Often quiet and elusive, but fierce when cornered. A sweet lady running a money-laundring scam with one of the Norwegians. A perfect front for a legitimate business, smiling and polite, but some say it was not always so. There are whispers that she ran a mafia family back where she came from. A hit girl. Queen of Hearts, they called her. But the heat came down and she fled to the east like the rest of us. 

The Punk Rock Chick: 
Pink haired and wild, with a knack for wrapping men around her finger. Claims to have come from a respectable background back in Norway, but nobody believes that to be true. She is too wild, too rough and to rowdy to be from anywhere but the mean streets of East Oslo. What brings her out (further) East? One can only speculate, but she will not go back home until she has found what she came for. 

The Sleeping Beauty: 
Fantastic poofy hair is just another trick in this girl's arsenal. Having taken the classic fairytale to heart, her motto is an easy going one: Sleep until hungry, Eat until sleepy. Super Ability: Sleeping anywhere, at any time. A warm and witty lady with a fine taste in compliments and ladyboys. However, one can only wonder...
Why is she so tired all the time?


The Welsh Connection: 
Sadly only granting us her presence for a short while. A wordly girl with some countries to her name, and who refuses to be tamed. A fearsome opponent in a debate, but a staunch supporter of all things just. Her birthday was celebrated in a dingy joint with some incredibly inebriated patrons and a haze of smoke running through the locale. As per Welsh custom. 

The Bodacious Brit:
A dusky beauty with a knack for havoc. Slayer of iPhones, queen of Bangkok and Beyond. Lovely dark curls could make any man think she might be an innocent girl. A wicked tongue with not one, but two pierceings has a tendency to set those poor fools straight, though. Shits given: Zero Fun had: Max. Rambunctious: Always. 

The Devious Dimples:
 A northern beauty who does not take no for an answer. Terrible as an enemy, really super cute as a friend. She has struck fear into many meddlesome fools, intent on inserting themselves as obstacles to this Odyssey. Goes by the byname "Boss Hanna" in the parts of the world where she is known, and really hates being kept out the loop when it comes to gossip. So, if you value your kneecaps, you will put her in the know. 

The Partygirl:
 Another nordic femme fatale who appreciates one thing over anything else. Wait, no. Two things! Asian Food, and FUN! A reckless soul who dives into every new situation head-first, with barely any persuasion needed from her friends. Barely... 
Known to ride Water Buffalo into battle. Not always successfully. Little is known of what she did in the past. Some say she was a black widow, leaving a string of broken hearts, empty wallets and slit throats in her wake. Others say she worked at a convenience store. 

The Not-Boring One:
 A chocolate-haired girl who has heard enough "tall jokes" for a lifetime, and is prepared to chokeslam the next sucker to utter one. Quiet at first, but a raging partystarter when befriended. A philosopher and reader. Witty and mindful. Probably makes a really good quiche. Deadly with a razorblade. 

The Flame:
A fire-kissed girl who has seen things no person was meant to see and done things that has no place in this blog. Big blue eyes to lull you into a sense of safety, kind words to lull you further in, then generous deeds to lull you all the way to the core, baby. There is no end to her cunning... you know... if she would stop being so goddamn nice.

Hellraiser Hilde:
 A total beast at parties, dishing out moves and drinks both left and right. A dynamo of excitement, energy and cocktails. They say she worked as a torpedo for the Norwegian gangs. However, it is more likely she has worked as an actual torpedo in a submarine, because this girl is an explosion of fun. 

007 - James Bun: 
I could write a blogpost, a short story... probably a novel about Bun. I tried. In the end, though, his stories are his. Our guide is an amazing guy, who has lived an amazing life. He told us about life under the Pol Pot regime, life as a monk, what it's like trying to rebuild a country and many more things than I will have the capacity to capture in this blog. He's an amazing guy, and pants-on-his-head crazy. We won't forget him.

That is all for now, I might post some assorted photos from the tour as well. A more comprehensive post will follow. 

Stay safe, dudes.

Eg reise ålaina.




Thursday, 19 March 2015

There are 9 Million Death Traps in Beijing


China. What a whirl of impressions and culture, plus crazy smog and weird things to eat.

Due to a miscommunication, I missed my pick-up from the train station and spent a good two hours trying to find a currency exchange and a cab. Turns out that the Chinese aren't wild about old Ghengis's face, because tughrik were impossible to get rid of. 

A face only a mother, and an empire spanning 33,000,000 square km, could love.

I choose to assume that I have had a curse laid on me, because once again I struggled to find the hostel that I was supposed to live in. (Anything else might lay blame on me for not preparing sufficiently, and we can't have that, now can we?)


Oh, in THAT shady alley!

Getting some free sight-seeing out of it, my cab driver waved over at least 10 locals and one very shady entrepreneur who offered to show me the way. Finally, I bit the sour apple and plugged my phone in to check if I had forgotten to print any vouchers with the address or number. Five conversation-less minutes followed. Long ones.

I had. 

Beijing Jade International Youth Hostel looks nothing like a hostel, and is easily the most boring place I have spent any time on this trip. A hotel foyer leads to a high desk of polished stone desk where the receptionists often gave the answer "no," to deter further enquiries. I assume there was a language barrier, but compared to Stu and Susan's Happy Dragon Hostel, the Jade left much to be wanted. (We'll get to that in a moment.) There was little to no encouragement to engage socially with other residents. 

The first night I spent roaming the streets of Beijing, hunting for the Happy Dragon. One might not have the greatest of shocks in finding out that there are plenty of jolly dragons in Beijing. After two hours, three hostels, five shady alleys and one hobo with a mouth full of no teeth, I found it!

The Happy Dragon Hostel is situated in a cosy little back alley and is pretty much everything a weary traveler could wish for in such an establishment. The employees are friendly, have a great command of English and like to strike up a chat with people nipping in to have a very cheap beer in the bar or to meet resident friends. The lounge and bar is always full of all kind of people, equally always ready for making friends and sharing stories. Germans, Canadians, Newcastlians and Norwegians all enjoyed eachother's company to the fullest. It was a late first night in Beijing.



The second day I spent in the Forbidden City, a grand and impressive fortress/palace/pimp-pad that countless travel-writers have documented far better than I will. Go see it, but expect great teeming masses of tourists and all the joy they bring. I got an audioguide and enjoyed quite a few hours there, but will keep the pictures of that particular area to a minimum. 

South East watchtower.

Had to walk to the Southern Gate. Took a bit longer than expected.

Southern Gate. The Emperor sure knew how to make a dude feel small.


16x2 metres of carved stone. Took them 28 days to slide the block 50 km over icy roads.



Even back then people took shortcuts to avoid dealing with customer complaints.






I also wandered Beijing both in daytime and nightime, because this city never sleeps. It is full of beautiful houses, interesting people and air so polluted you can chew it. 






*Cough*


Stu later observed that many Beijingese(?) tend to hork loudly and for a tremendous amount of time before spitting. I believe this is to dislodge great clumps of coagulated smog from their lungs, and expel them in a rapid fashion. Gross? Wait until I get started on the night markets!

Before that, however, I would like to talk a little about one of the more genuine experiences we had. On a day where I was a little at a loss as to what to do, Stu rocked up at my hostel with a bicycle. 



Hands down, it is truly the way to travel Beijing. You feel the wind in your hair, traverse greater distances and also have a constant niggling fear for your life. Chinese drivers seem to regard traffic lights like little more than polite suggestions, and are constantly zipping by as you pedal madly to make it across intersections. 













After seeing some impressive Chinese skyscrapers and trying out various VPN's to sate our facebook abstinence, we found  an inconspicious little park by the road.



Within we found what we had looked for, the actual residents of Beijing going about their lives and not just catering to tourists.




 There was a Tai Chi instructor practicing with his student, three gentlemen were practicing their whip-handling and -

What's that?

Oh yeah, that totally happened.



There were pensioners engaged in an impromptu karaoke session of sorts and a pond full of koi. 



I was very happy.

We also visited a temple depicting the Buddhist post-life punishments. Apparently they have some kick ass LSD there.






The next day, after meeting Anja and Julia, two lovely German ladies, a bunch of travelers from the Happy Dragon headed to the infamous night markets. (I had previously had a brief visit with Stu, but we didn't find the big one and instead found a rooftop bar with reggae.) 



There we had, in quick succession, snail, snake, shark, scorpion, spider and even silk worm. Cricket and grasshopper was also tried and tested. When in Rome...

... act like a tourist.

Snake

Shark
Cricket

Scorpion




All in all, mostly crunchy and very well spiced. 

Except the silk worm.



That evening I said good bye to Stu and my new friends and the next day I flew off to Bangkok and my Indochina adventures.

Stay safe, (and eat your peas.)

Eg reise ålaina.